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Kelly Oubre Jr., or Wave Papi (as he's nicknamed himself) is right up there with Westbrook in the annals of NBA fashion. He went down earlier this season with a wrist injury but made time for this incredible photo shoot to celebrate the upcoming birth of his child. The watch? A large, gold, and bold Rolex Yacht-Master II (check it out in the second photo).
Shortly before Watches & Wonders, IWC announced a line of sustainable straps made from a paper-based material called TimberTex. Composed of 80% natural plant fibers and handmade with natural dyes in Italy, TimberTex straps can be added to select IWC Portugieser and Portofino models.
Three models come on rubber straps which makes the watches look sort of like combat swimmers who surfaced accidentally through a shoal of princess tiaras. One has diamonds on just the bezel (presumably that's the one that has to stay home and cavort with friendly woodland creatures, while the others go to the ball).
Vulcain was one of Wind's first loves. He remembers reading about the brand and the Cricket on HODINKEE while attending Georgetown University, in the nation's capital. Naturally, Wind found the Cricket's connection to American presidents interesting. He began writing for HODINKEE while in college, and eventually penned the long-form guide to the watches of the presidents.
The watch will be lot 138 as part of the 2021 Phillips New York Watch Auction, held over December 11th and 12th – the Ellison Speedmaster will go under the hammer on the 12th. If nothing else, the sale ought to make the author of Invisible Man much more visible to the watch collecting community.
His autonomy allows him to maintain that perfect balance between watchmaking, teaching, and family time. Lecomte says that, as of right now, he's determined that he's able to produce approximately 10 watches per year at the quality he wants, while still splitting his time with family and the students at Lycee Edgar Faure.
The watch is powered by the Longines caliber 507.2, a hand-wound movement based on the ETA 6498/2 with a 53-hour power reserve. When it comes to size, the Heritage 1938 doesn't follow the same script as the original. It's sized up for modern taste at 43mm as opposed to the typical 32 to 36mm watches of the WWII era.
Maybe it's a "watch person's watch," in that way, something full of "deep cut" bits of improvement and technical achievements for those who enjoy them. But with such a classic design, form, and fit, it won't take being a true nerd to enjoy the watch just as much as you would the Jumbo, which has proven very hard to beat.
The LVMH Watch Division is starting 2022 off with the latest edition of LVMH Watch Week, an online exhibition featuring new watches from Zenith, TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Bulgari, beginning Monday, January 24, 2022.
The Aubry Doxas were markedly different from the curvy tonneau cases of yore. Instead, they were blocky, thick, and featured an oversized bezel. This shift in design was pervasive during the '80s. In the automotive world, curves had entirely gone out of style by 1980; instead, the decade was marked by box flares, right angles, and square panels. If the Aubry Doxas were a truck, they'd be a Jeep Wagoneer.
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In the past few years, we've seen quite a few watches that aim to translate strong design languages from high-end watchmakers into models that are an order of magnitude more affordable than their inspirations. Just earlier this month, the Gronefeld brothers presented that concept with their own line of watches, and the MB&F-descendent M.A.D.Editions has certainly been the center of conversation for a few years now. Hell, I'd argue that even the MoonSwatch fits into this idea.
To delight in the features of the high-performing manual-winding movement (72 hours of power reserve), a smoked sapphire-crystal dial invites to admire the leisurely 5-minute rotations of the tourbillon set at 6 o'clock.
In the last couple of years, Movado has been the recipient of a bunch of collector praise and, with that, prices have climbed for the top-tier vintage examples. The Borgel-cased and caliber M95-powered chronographs continue to fetch strong results at auction. That being said, so much of the brand's catalog remains undervalued and under appreciated.
The screw-down crown also features a new design, featuring a five-pointed star in relief and multiple finishes. Zenith is also using its modular, quick-change integrated bracelet system for the first time in a stainless steel watch (it debuted in last year's titanium Defy Extreme).
Browsing J.P. Vicente’s account, @thewatcherist, you’ll see a little bit of everything, but a strong preference for Grand Seiko. @eriksstrickland is also a Seiko lover, but he doesn’t mind throwing in a dash of Doxa. Austen Chu of @horoloupe has plenty of waffle dials on the press (his M.O. is R.O.) And the four physicians who collectively make up @horologyhomies have perfected the art of staying in touch with friends – through a joint watch account
There's no better way to get your child to learn how to tell the time than to start them early. For Kieran and his daughter, who live outside London, their shared love of watches grew recently when they were gifted the latest HODINKEE Swatch and accompanying Flik Flak for Kieran's birthday. Kieran is proud knowing that their new watches will always be a connection between him and his daughter.
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Any bracelet would give the watch a more sporty personality, but the bracelet that IWC has chosen for the Portugieser Chronograph lends a particularly rugged aesthetic to the watch, which was originally designed for navigation tasks. It's always been a capable wristwatch with the horological chops to back it up, but now, with a bracelet, it finally looks the part in a way that it never has before.
The flanks have a nice high polish, contrasting against the brushed top case and bracelet. The thickness is because of the modified Valjoux 7750 automatic movement inside (an iconic movement and a good reason to consider any watch, in my opinion). The bracelet has been improved from the vintage example, with end links that meet the case. And the double-domed sapphire crystal sticks out like the original plastic one.
Brand: AlstaModel: Motoscaphe 120Diameter: 40mmThickness: 14.7mm without crystal; 16.2mm with crystalCase Material: 316L stainless steelDial Color: BlackIndexes: WhiteLume: Blue-glowing Super-LumiNovaWater Resistance: 300 metersStrap/Bracelet: Black perforated leather rally strap
In short, the rose gold cases espouse slate-hued dials dresses with a pattern conjuring up ocean waved obtained using delicate hand guilloche engraving and the titanium cases take on dials with a host of blue nuances.
Again, this is crown-operated QP, but independent watchmaker Andreas Strehler, who created the watch’s movement, didn’t make something traditional — you can’t label a watch with a centrally mounted hand indicating the month "traditional.
Working in chronological order here, our first under-the-radar Calatrava is the reference 2533. Most notable for not being a 565 or a 2508 and not having a case made by Francois Borgel (Taubert & Fils), the 2533 is the forgotten child among the early waterproof Calatrava lineup.
While it's not meant to be an exact recreation of the original 6105, the SLA033 comes very close. It incorporates modern, top-of-the-line elements like the 8L35 movement and a Zaratsu-polished bezel. It grew to 45mm from the original's 44mm. It came on a "waffle strap" and was priced at $4,250. It sold out shortly after it was launched.
Part of what we are seeing this year is the idea of color being used as currency in the watch space. Even watches that aren't strictly rainbows seem influenced by the brightening color schemes. There's the MoonSwatch, to cite one example. But even IWC – a brand I would consider far more conservative in its approach to color – is playing the color currency game. Earlier this year, during the Miami Grand Prix, they released a Formula One watch in a vibrant turquoise.
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Sinn pilot models – 756, 856 and variants – new, but especially usedAlthough fairly common at one point, the Sinn pilots have been overshadowed by the newer U series – partially because of size, and possibly also because of changing tastes.
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The red accent might be a nod to the famous "Red Tails," a distinguished P-51 unit flown by Black pilots during WWII. Out of the four, the Mustang model is aesthetically closest to the original AVI references, and by extension, the 2020 AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-edition.
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It wasn’t until the beginning of modern warfare in the early 20th century that watches became visually and mechanically utilitarian, with straightforward designs, better movements, and, generally speaking, better specs.
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My favorite part of the experience with the Astron was the sheer accuracy of the thing. We sit here and argue about COSC, and METAS until our faces turn blue. This is GPS. Atomic. And it blows everything else out of the water. Now that's not to say I don't still absolutely love my automatic watches. I do – a lot. But it doesn't mean I can't love this too.
Are there any negative points about this book? Of course, not all interesting & current master watchmakers have been covered in Masters of Contemporary Watchmaking, but this leaves some room for a possible next title.
And so the J12 renaissance is nigh. There's a new campaign with Penelope Cruz and Margot Robbie, two very famous, very beautiful women who in a way stand in direct opposition to the paparazzi vibes of LiLo during her house-arrest era. A 2019 campaign saw the J12 on the wrists of Keira Knightly, Ali MacGraw, and Naomi Campbell, among others: all sophisticated and iconic women who are or were part of the greater Chanel universe.
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Okay, finally we get to the last one: a commemorative Rolex given to Raymond Lambert, who was also on the Swiss expedition with Dyhrenfurth in 1952. In fact, Lambert, along with Norgay, were the two who reached the highest-recorded point at the time when they attempted to, but ultimately fell just short of summiting Everest. No doubt, they established a route to the top for the British expedition the next year.
Given the full sapphire case and new tourbillon movement, this is no "entry-level" Big Bang, and thus the $169,000 price tag is, at least at some level, a given. For that truly immense sum of money, you do get a very limited creation (only 50 examples will be made) and a seriously complicated and equally orange watch.
Price: $5,000 for steel and leather, $5,300 for full steel, $7,250 USD for two-tone and leather, $9,650 for full two-tone, $12,950 for gold and leather, and $33,000 for full gold.Availability: Available online and in Breitling Boutiques.Limited Edition: NoFor more, click here.
Touches of hand-finishing elevate the complicated watch. Under the silver dial, a small disc is placed to reflect light back through the tourbillon for a more dramatic view. On the back, the black dial features partial skeletonisation, including hand angling of the bridges, done by JLC's Manufacture's Metiers Rares workshop. All this handwork will set you back a tidy $139,000.
While today's launch doesn't feel quite as big as the 5270P of two years ago (which, incidentally, debuted alongside the rose-gold version on a bracelet), a yellow-gold version with silvery opaline dial does feel like an essential part of this reference's story, perhaps even one that you could be forgiven for thinking already existed.
But why am I droning on about a modern Rolex sport watch in the middle of a story about a '70s and '80s period piece? Because this watch, released more than 30 years after the events themselves, is what Affleck wears in Argo.
Unless you've been lucky enough to actually try hand-finishing as part of a brand workshop or factory visit (and botched it, which is of course the inevitable outcome of letting amateurs take their best shot) it's almost impossible to understand just what it takes in terms of talent and training to pull it off. But if you spend even a little time wrapping your mind around just how tough it is to do really well, you start to appreciate the expert human touch that goes into fine hand-finishing.
There have been a lot of comments on other new models, like the polished center links of the GMT-Master IILN or the new Explorer 214720 with hands that are just too short. This Explorer II just seems to be good to go as it is.
Talking Watches With David WilliamsDavid Williams is a Canadian astronaut with a fascinating collection of watches, including a single watch that he wore to the bottom of the ocean AND while working on the International Space Station. It's Seikos, Subs, Speedies, and more.
As of yesterday, you will find hundreds of pre-owned watches for sale on HODINKEE. That is a lot of watches to go through, we know that. What an excellent problem to have, too many watches to shop for on HODINKEE! With the added competition for your attention, the vintage team knew that we had to bring the heat this week. Expect some heavy hitters as well as the classic mix as you click through the slideshow and shop the full collection in the Shop.
While the RM11-04 Automatic Winding Flyback Chronograph Roberto Mancini unveiled at the end of this year has kept all the RM 11-01’s assets, it is also a concentrate of the latest technical innovations obtained using high-tech materials and benefits from the brand’s new stylistic codes.
For the Mojave Desert edition, Knoop's team wanted to find a color that was warm but not sunny; dusty but not dull. They started pulling swatches in neutral tones. "It's a calm color," Knoop says. "A color that gives off a certain durability." After identifying a handful of Pantone swatches that approximated their vision, IWC shipped them off to its ceramics manufacturer in Japan to create samples of the color.
I started the hunt with a 38mm Omega Speedmaster but the oval-shaped subdials didn't sit right with me. On to the Tudor Black Bay 36 which I just wanted to be a Rolex, plus the Arabic numerals were missing and this was something I decided was integral to the tool genre. I thought about looking into an IWC Pilot's Watch in 36mm but I needed to start with a brand I was familiar with to slowly ease into the game.
On the other hand, nobody and I mean nobody, is doing anything even close to this. The Blue Phoenix is a high-speed head-on collision between technology and neon-Shinjuku-nights artistry and it could only have come from Japan, and from Casio. Coming soon to a Neo-Tokyo near you.
This watch isn't as space-agey as the Bulova. The Roman numerals feel like an attempt at retaining some degree of classicism. The wood on this dial feels more toned down and natural – more Northern California hippie and less suburban catalog kitchen suite.
Not so fast…chalk it up to more reading, but even though I said I was done with adding Speedmasters after one, and oddly still lacked interest in vintage examples, I started reading more about the Space Race. What I found was astounding.
It took ten years for an official Mercedes-AMG Petronas team watch by IWC to come to fruition. Now, at the first-ever Miami Grand Prix, we'll see if it gives them the competitive edge they need to succeed on the race track.
We were always really interested in stepping our game up, Bader says. "Now I think we really have the license to do that. I mean, this wouldn't be Christopher Ward if we didn't listen to the customers, and the customers are talking. It will take some time but I think already in 2024 we have another banger coming."
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For a closer look at one of the more esoteric two-tone models in Rolex's modern lineup (and a foreshadow of the new two-tone Explorer), grab your fins and roll over the gunwale with Jason Heaton as he takes the flashiest of Sea-Dwellers back to its natural habitat. Does a precious infusion change the character of an iconically sporty watch? There's only one way to find out.Click here to read "In-Depth: Diving With The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller Steel And Gold".
I adore this reference for its largely monochromatic appeal and its placement as a less-common alternative to the ubiquitous Submariner. There is something very fitting about a YM for a successful race car driver. Maybe it's the sporty dash of red; maybe it's just the fact that it feels like a special choice from the catalog of that era. Regardless, for me, the 16622 will always be the "Hurley" Yacht-Master.
As a happily married guy, I see Valentine's Day as a chance to up the concept of a date night with my wife. And within that methodology, I would certainly be thinking about what watch I might wear for a little getaway, be it for a great dinner together or maybe something a little more far-flung.
Developing the thinnest mechanical watch in the world available today truly requires specific knowledge, experience, and an innovative spirit. Above all, it requires an 'always do better than necessary' spirit to push back boundaries and never give up! And the future will tell us where we will be able to go thinner!
But there is one specific series of Speedmaster Reduced watches that always caught my attention, and those are the models associated with F1 legend Michael Schumacher. Dozens of iterations of the Speedmaster Reduced have been made with his involvement, and they all boast at least one design detail that's either loud or interesting, sometimes both.
This release is simple in theory: One watch in blue and the other in green. Each has a familiar layout with Roman numerals, and a distinct illustration of the days of the week paired with the power reserve indication.
The Apple Watch (in all its variations) stands out as the best finished and most thoughtfully designed smartwatch that's widely available, in my opinion. That doesn't change with the Ultra, especially since it currently represents the top-of-the-food-chain in the Apple Watch hierarchy, replacing previous-generation "Edition" models crafted out of materials including precious metals, ceramic, and even titanium.
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Miffy is the star of the show, but her presence on the watch is subtle, she's a complication with a pop aesthetic. The simple roundness of the watch, the monochrome wash of solid color, and the smooth rotation of the case are equally as appealing to me as the endearing little bunny floating among the stars.
The watch is tall, and you can certainly feel it on the wrist. But I think this is the kind of watch that you wear when you want to get into and actually feel the watch you're wearing. You put it on because you want to know that you're wearing something that's a bit of a statement. It doesn't fade into the background, it doesn't quite fit under a cuff, and it doesn't go unnoticed.
Brand: Ulysse NardinModel: Chronometry Collection Marine Torpilleur Blue EnamelReference Number: 1183-310LE-3AE-175/1A (Brown Strap), 1183-310LE-3AE-175/1B (Blue Strap)Diameter: 42mmThickness: 11.73mmCase Material: Stainless steelDial Color: BlueIndexes: Roman numerals for the hoursLume: NoWater Resistance: 50mStrap/Bracelet: Brown or blue alligator strap
While the upwards of $9,000 pricing might seem steep, it's important to remember that you're getting a COSC-certified, manufacture caliber from an effectively independent brand with tons of heritage. Whichever color you fancy, the design of this new 42mm Premier is strong.
Of all the Calatrava on table, 12 of them are unique pieces – this 1504 included. You can see that Patrick likes to collect on theme – and here we have another incredible special steel watch with black dial and Breguet numerals – but this time they're in pink gold. As some dealers love to say, show me another.
The modern Chronomaster Sport line was originally launched early in 2021, and the core of the lineup has been based on steel 41mm chronographs with either black or white dials. We've seen expansion into precious metals, two-tone, and a handful of boutique editions over the past couple of years, but today's announcement adds the option of a green-toned model in steel and a rose gold model with a meteorite dial and no small amount of gems for the bezel and hour markers.
Caliber: 324 S C FUSFunctions: Hours, minutes, date, second time zone, day/nightDiameter: 31mmPower Reserve: 45 hoursWinding: AutomaticFrequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)Jewels: 29Additional Details: Patek Philippe Seal
In the meanwhile, this watch no longer is part of my watch collection, but I do miss it dearly from time to time. Enjoy the photo essay and shoot us a comment if you have any questions about this watch.
We spent the past two weeks glued to our couches watching the matches unfold. For this tennis fan, it was one of the best tournaments in recent memory, filled with drama, intrigue, some incredible tennis, and a whole lot of watch-spotting. Honestly, tennis and timepieces – does it get any better?
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The non-coated Formula 1 Chronograph retails at $4,700, while the three DLC-coated models retail at $4,900. The Oracle Red Bull Racing edition is priced at $5,450 but is not a limited edition. The models will be available progressively throughout the year, with the red models and the Red Bull Racing edition available in February.
The movement inside should surprise almost no one – AP's lovely calibre 2121. Fitted with a solid gold winding mass and tracking hours, minutes, and the date, this movement has long been linked with the Royal Oak, and it's always a treat to get a chance to peer through that display caseback to catch a glimpse of Audemars Piguet's super thin (only 3.05mm!) automatic movement.
Next up is London auction house Bonhams, a treasure trove loved by both me and Stevens; he suggests trying Bonhams Knightsbridge, "They don't have the sexiness that the other auction houses do, but 10, 15 years ago they were one of the biggest players in the watch game." If you dig through the lots, chances are you'll find some cool offbeat gems that you might actually have a chance of winning at auction.
Brand: MontblancModel: Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Reference Number: 125565Diameter: 42mmThickness: 12.8mm Case Material: Grade 5 titaniumDial Color: BlueIndexes: WhiteLume: Yes; hands and also world time dialsWater Resistance: 100mStrap/Bracelet: Bi-metal grains of rice bracelet and blue Sfumato alligator leather strap
I’ve always preferred models without the Cyclops to the date versions and that’s still true, but as mentioned in the Red Sub article, the warm lume plus the dated kitsch of the Top Hat crystal can’t be denied.
Certain Eastern-Arabic Day-Dates featured unique dial executions; you'll find a few in the Glamorous Day-Date sale, including the "Aladdin's Rose" and the "Brooklyn Bridge." In December 2020, Phillips sold the "Eye of Horus," a likely unique ref. 1804 in platinum with a remarkable asymmetrical guilloche dial.
When you're not diving, the ideal lume glows brightly and for a long time. Diving changes this scenario. If you need your lume underwater, it means that you're either diving in murky/dark water or you're on a night dive. Either way, you should have a flashlight of some sort.
But more importantly, we asked ourselves the question, "How do we bring emotion through this platform?" People really think emotion has to be strictly face-to-face interactions with people, and we think that's an important part of the equation. But The Persistence of Memory was designed strictly as an online exhibition – and yet wanting to communicate a very similar sort of sensation one would perceive as if they were in a physical place.
All this comes in a new 43mm sandblasted titanium case with the Concepts collection's first interchangeable strap system. And while it's a massive 17.4mm size, you still have the ergonomics that make the Concept both visually compelling and what AP calls "surprisingly wearable," albeit obviously very much a statement piece with a statement price of CHF 150,000. Only 150 pieces will be made each year.
On this uneven surface, two sub-dials circled with silver form the outline of a figure 8 – the other Jaquet Droz symbol – with the two loops of different sizes: the hours and minutes are displayed with two lancine-type hands near 12 o’clock, while the seconds are at 6 o’clock.
Obviously someone inside the company has a deep-seated fascination with the material. As it turns out, it's not just anyone – it's Urwerk founder Martin Frei. And it's not a fascination so much as it is an obsession. He can't get enough of it, much to the chagrin of the staff operating the heavy machinery.
The organization is really good as it is, there is no intention to change anything. The way we work is, there is a UN team and a GP team, and very often the GP team discovers what the UN team is about to launch the day that the product is being launched, which is great. I think that's what we wanted because the two brands are very distinct.
With its bright orange dial and price tag that doesn't even come close to crossing the four-digit threshold, the SRPK11 is the pick that I've chosen as the middle point between the watch-newbie and collector-looking-for-quirk territory. In the case that you want something more neutral and versatile in terms of color, fret not, there are still plenty of the more conservatively styled black and silver dial options waiting.
Years ago, my introduction to Ulysse Nardin came via its marine chronometers and pocket watches. On the occasion of the Monaco Yacht Show, an event second in prominence only to the city's annual Formula One race, UN tapped into this compelling dimension of its horological history by introducing a limited run of chronometer-rated wristwatches.
That's a fortunate improvement because, with my big fingers, I found the placement of the crown to be challengingly close to the top right lug when winding the watch or setting the time – an issue that luckily won't come up as much with all that extra power reserve. But it does bring me to the biggest improvement in the Zeitwerk: the quickset hour button. It might seem obvious, but it's hard to overstate how big of a change this is.
See Mido's full collection online. The Baroncelli Heritage is available now at Mido retailers. Available in a 33 mm x 6.85 mm case or a 39 mm x 6.95 mm case. Water resistance 30m/100 feet. Strap, croc-pattern semi-matte calf leather with rose gold PVD-coated pin buckle. Movement, Mido 1192/ETA 2892A2, with blued screws, perlage, and Geneva stripes on the rotor; adjusted to four positions; 42 hour power reserve. Double sided hands, diamond polished on one bevel and sandblasted on the other.
Are there any negative points about this book? Of course, not all interesting & current master watchmakers have been covered in Masters of Contemporary Watchmaking, but this leaves some room for a possible next title.
Adopting the concept of a case machined from the carbon-carbon brakes of racing cars, the AS-01 model incorporates elements of a mythical vehicle: the brake pads of the 1993 McLaren MP4/8 driven by Ayrton Senna.
While I long for the days of Santos ref. 2961 it would be so fun to see Cartier bring back this super distinctive octagonal variation. I love that this smaller size was available with an automatic movement. All of the mechanical versions have tiny bubble backs which feel super retro but I would happily take a bubble back case if it meant I could finally have small, design-driven watches with mechanical movements.
The SBGP017 is limited to 2,000 pieces, each carrying a retail price of $3,800. Between the dial, the accuracy of the movement, and the ingenious hour jumping, it's a do-it-all GS that is also drop-dead gorgeous.
What the new 3861 Speedmaster launch did, in essence, was make the buying calculus that much harder when it comes to bracelets or straps. Why? Because the bracelet on the new Speedmaster is leagues better than what it replaced and is probably the best Speedy bracelet ever made (apologies to the Flat-Linkers out there, but I stand by my opinion).
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